Publisher's Note

  • Publisher’s Note

    It was 22 years ago when I arrived in Canada and chose Calgary, Alberta to be my home.  Leaving my family and friends behind, it was a new adventure for me to be in a new country without knowing anyone.  That was the time I looked for a Filipino community paper and never found any, [...]

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Page added on May 29, 2013

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GARDENER’S CORNER

by H. W. Kriaski

WHAT TO DO FOR MAY?
May is a good month to prune your trees. Cut back long sagging branchs, then cut out  over crowded areas and any branchs that are dry, broken or rubbing against one another. Remove to the nearest heal;thy side shoot or branch. With sharp pruners cut off the undesired section about 1/8 inch away from the side branch. Cut at a slant in the same direction as the side branch. If you cut close to the side shoot the exposed area will heal over without further stress to the branch. Leaving a long stub infront of the side branch will likely die back possibly all the way back to a major stem. If your removing branchs from the main stem that are fairly long and heavey, have someone support the branch with a rope. Make your first cut ( with a sharp pruning saw) from the bottom of the branch about 12 inches from the main stem. Cut at least 1/3 through. Then from the top cut (about 1 inch in front of the bottom cut. As you cut through have your helper ease the branch away. The limb will snap off at the under cut. Then saw off the remaining stub 1/8 inch from the main stem. Make a clean cut, trim away any jagged wood and bark with a sharp knife. Cuts over 3/4 inch I treat with tree paint, under 3/4 I leave as is unless there is signs of a disease, then I paint all cuts. Also pay attention to areas where bark is dry and pealing. With a sharp knife clean off all dead wood and bark and paint over the wound with tree paint. Most will servive, even branchs that have snapped off the main stem. Shrubs, roses and juniper leave till late spring to prune. Then with pruners cut away all winter die back to new live growth.
If you have perennial or annual seeds to plant its time to get started. You need 6-8 weeks of head time to get estabished plants, developed enough to be planted out in containers or flower beds. At 4-5 weeks or at the 4 leaf stage transplant seedlings induvidgely into 2×2inch pots. After a week in single pots move to a greenhouse . By end of may when conditions outdoors are ideal then you can start climatizing for permant outdoor planting. If a late  frost should be of concern, cover your seedlings for afew nights or for how long is necessary. Do not use plastic or polyethelene, frost penatrates through, use fabric or cardboard. If you’ve pruchased packaged roots or bulbs get them outof the packages. Remove any dead roots and mould. Dust for mildew and plant into pots, make sure to work soil in around roots leaving no air pockets. Put in a well lighted location but not in direct sunlight, keep moist. When conditions are ideal climatize and transplant outdoors. Most roots planted will produce blooms the same year.
Buying established plants is the simplest for immediate results. This approch offers the widest selection of plants. Climatizes your plants before planting out permantly. Do not be fooled by a few hot days in early may, wait until a week after the last full moon of may.
Happy gardening
H. W. Kriaski








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