Publisher's Note

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Page added on February 18, 2010

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Gardener’s Corner – Connection to Plants

Being raised on a farm in northern Alberta during the 50’s and 60’s my entire life seemed to be connected to plants. However life then was directed at food crops like hay, grain, potatoes, carrots, turnips and cabbage. No greenhouses existed in small rural towns except some stores had seed stands filled again with vegetables seeds and not much for flowers except annuals. We did get catalogues from Winnipeg, and Ontario which again marketed veggies and annuals but not much for a northern gardens. Some perennials were available like lilies, delphiniums, violas, maltese cross, bleeding heart, shasta daisy, but the array of varieties were meger. I remember my mother trading excess seeds and plants with friends and neighbours for varieties she didn’t have. We even resorted to transplanting wild flowers like gaillardia and tiger lillies. Annuals seemed to dominate until the 70’s. Moving to Calgary in the mid 70’s I went along with the flow, saw neighbours planting out annuals mid may, so not to be out done I went to several greenhouses and purchased about $100 worth of annuals, planted them out and a few days later a frost toasted them. So along with thousand of other Calgarians I trooped to the greenhouses for more plants. The weather warmed up some and we all planted out our annuals again only to see them get frost killed again. It was then that my quest for perennials began. In a matter of 5 years I accumulated about two hundred varieties. Many were low growing alpine types suitable for rock formations. Now this area rated zone 2 has a fairly large collection in colours, sizes, shapes and nature.

Now is the time to brows through gardening magazines and catalogues for selections suitable to your needs and desires. Seed stands are starting to pop up and a trip to one of the major garden centers would yield something new. Try your hand at growing plants from seed. All you need is some trays and 2×2 inch pots and a transparent dome for the tray. Buy the potting soil which will be sterilized, screened and weed free. Follow the directions on the back of the seed packet for planting instructions. Most seeds need to be started 6 to 8 weeks before last frost which can be considered at the end of may. When purchasing plants or seeds always check what zone their rated for. Plants rated for zones 2 and 3 will prosper well in this area, but zone 4 plants are questionable. They may survive in well protected locations, or try it as you would an annual. Any seeds you have left over would be fine if stored in a cool dry dark location. Buying established plants is the simplest way for immediate results. Also offers the widest selection and to varieties which are not available in seed, but established plants are more costly. Established perennials have a far better rate of survival and usually flower the same year.

If you intend to purchase packaged roots or bulbs look for Grade No 1. Packaged items should firm when squeezed and have at least three visible shoots. Low grade roots will have usually 1 shoot and may not produce flowers the same year. Roots and bulbs should be removed from their packaging and planted in pots if its to early to plant outside, just covered with soil. Keep soil slightly moist and in the sunlight, acclimatize roots to outside temperature after last spring frost before planting out permanently.

Start your tomatoes end of February and treat them as you would annuals. Pot seedlings in to induvidual 2 inch pots at the fourth leaf stage then repot into larger pots at the 8 inch height then finally into large pot at least 12×12 inches minimum or directly into your garden a week after last frost .

Happy gardening.

H. W. Kriaski

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